If It Ain't Baroque, Don't Fix It! (Part 1)

This past Saturday I went on a baroque walking tour with my (hopefully!) professor. [We still have no idea what classes we will be taking come mid-september.] I have decided that I absolutely love Professor Alei. He's teaching the two art history courses offered, renaissance and baroque, and is so knowledgeable about everything. Seriously, I could just follow him around the city and listen to him tell me facts and stories about the things around us. Also, he has an extreme hatred for tourists, being a true Roman, and wants to go at them Kill Bill style - two katanas on a killing spree. He's hilarious and I learned so much from him in one afternoon. I might just die if I don't get in his class.

So our walking tour was baroque themed, specifically a string of works by rival artists Borromini and Bernini that align themselves in a line leading from Pamphilj Palace to Sant'Ignazio, the Jesuit headquarters. The main theme of these works seems to have a lot to do with the Jesuits' mission and a man named Athanasius Kircher (Keer-ker). 

First off, the Jesuits were a Catholic order whose main goal at the time was to become God's peaceful soldiers. What this meant was that they took it upon themselves to teach the world about God and also setting up education systems. They believed that knowledge is power, and for this reason many private catholic schools are associated with the Jesuits. 

Now, Athanasius Kircher was known as the 'last man who knew everything.' He was a German Jesuit scholar, scientist, inventor, historian, spoke 27 languages and is considered the founder of egyptology. Athanasius Kircher also had a 'wunderkammern' (or room of mysteries) in the Church of Sant'Ignazio. In the wunderkammern he had things like a dried armadillo and  various other 'exotic' sundries. Although he was a scientist and a holy man he was still able to make scientific advances without being declared a heretic by claiming that God sent the ideas to him in dreams. 

Alrighty, so, background knowledge out of the way... we start in Piazza Navona. In ancien times it was a sports arena that over time fell into ruin. In the 1600s Pope Innocent X decided to move into the area and bring his family with him. He commissioned the building of what is known as the Palazzo Pamphilj (named after his family) and hired Borromini to design the façade. Palazzo Pamphilij's adjoining church, Sant'Agnese in Agone was built to be a smaller, but more perfect, version of the vatican (which Borromini's rival, Bernini, was working on.)

Palazzo Pamphilj

Sant'Agnese in Agone

After hearing of Borromini's success under the patronage of the Pamphilj family Bernini decided to try his hand. He presented Pope Innocent X with a smaller scale (but still massive) model of the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi  (Fountain of Four Rivers). It depicts the four main rivers of each known continent (Danube, Ganges, Nile, and Rio de la Plata). The central obelisk was transported all the way from Egypt. It signifies that the Pope now has power over the reigning religion, even the pharaohs bowed to him. It is topped by a dove with an olive branch (the symbol of the Pamphilj famly) to show dominance and also serve as a reminder of peace. Pope Innocent X wanted to create a new pax romana (the period of peace and prosperity that occurred under the reign of Augustus Caesar as Imperator of the Roman Empire.) He believed that if he created a time of peace like that, then it would cause the circumstances that would ring about the second coming of Christ (because Christ first came during Augustus' reign.) The rivers of the statue are each reacting to the light of God. The giant palm tree, a nod to Athanasius Kircher's writings, is growing into the direction of the obelisk, God's light. Another Kircher reference is found when one looks upon the animal that represents the Americas. It looks like a dragon or a scaly sea serpent... but in fact it is an armadillo, just like the one in the wunderkammern.

Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi

Armadillo

So I'm going to post part 2 of this later... because it's a lot of info, but stuff I really enjoy!

Scholar's

Some of the ladies and I went out last night and ended up at this amazing Irish pub. We had way too much fun. The place is known as Scholar's Pub and has a reputation for being a great hang out for university students. Lindsey and I walked there from our flat last night and were thoroughly chuffed upon entering. (Sidenote: I am also loving Lindsey. This chick watches Dr. Who, Sherlock, & GoT, loves HP, is hilarious, adorable, and likes to walk everywhere. Too fun.) 
We walked in to find a laid back bar with an Irish staff and golf and football playing on the telly. I got myself a pint of Guinness and we waited for some of the other UC Rome girls to show up (there are literally about 9 guys on this trip... it's an estrogen party). After we found them we headed over to Scholar's 2nd bar through the doors to the right and found live music, a dance floor and a livelier atmosphere. An Italian band called Vazza Nikki was playing a bunch of American oldies and some of their own big band style originals in Italian. The American girls started dancing and got the Italians and Brits to join in. 
Of course a rather large group of American girls at a bar get attention pretty quickly and by the end of the night one girl was planning on going out with the band's keyboardist, another was trying to kindly decline a very persistent and cute Italian boy who paid for a round of tequila shots for everyone, and another couldn't keep the Italians off of her. After a fun night of dancing and just plain having a good time all of the girls did yet another head check and we all got home safe and sound (yes mom, we were very good about safety). Honestly, this city is rather safe (as my Roman professor assures me) and as long as you've got your wits about you you'll be wizard.
I am definitely loving all of the people I meet here and some of the girls are already referring to each other as surrogate sisters. We may not know each other's names yet, but we will certainly have one another's back.

La Bella Figura

I'm feeling more and more at home in this city. I guess it's probably because most of the Italians are on vacation at the moment and aren't here to completely intimidate me. Although I took a stroll for a few hours yesterday afternoon by Piazza Navona, the Pantheon, and the Trevi fountain. I just walked around and took it all in while the tourists were looking very confused while trying to rein in their children. One of the things about living in Rome that I have mastered is crossing the street. There is definitely an art to it. Because none of the cars or vespas actually follow any uniform set of driving rules a pedestrian has to ignore the walk/don't walk symbols and use their own good judgement and a rather large set of kahones.... otherwise it will take you ages to get anywhere. In the more touristy areas when I cross the street I get odd looks that seem to say, 'Is she crazy? We're not allowed to walk!' But when having the green dude symbol light up to indicate that it is 'safe' to cross it really does not mean that you are safe. Around the Romans though I can blend in - in terms of my street crossing capabilities. And for that I am a little proud!

As we've been learning, here in Rome people have a very high regard for how one presents themselves. Not specifically appearance wise, though that does play a part in it, but mostly having to do with manners and social cues. This is what the Romans refer to as 'la bella figura,' which literally translates to 'the beautiful face/form' but really means something more like making a good impression. There are things one is expected to do - like greet people who work in the building or place of business you are entering or like asking a friend you haven't seen in a while out to coffee (and both saying 'of course we'll meet up! next week?' when in actuality both parties know that they don't mean to pursue the endeavor further.)  

I'm learning a lot about what it means to be a Roman, but until they all come back from vacation I can feel like I've got the gist of it.

Trastevere!

I am loving my neighborhood! Trastevere is just beautiful! It has a wonderful blend of ancient, renaissance, baroque, and more modern architecture. But it all blends together and complements each other. I'm working on becoming a Trasteverini - a resident of Trastevere who is typified by being a bit bohemian and knows where the party's at. Currently there is a massive set-up of retaurants, shops, bars, and hookah bars on the banks of the Tiber by Isola Tibberina. Wendy, Ashley, Stephanie and I went out and walked it last night. It was amazing. Neon lights and bumping music next to ancient structures. Trastevere is a living chronology and Trasteverini believe themselves to be the last of the 'true romans' unlike those located more northwards. Trastevere literally translates to 'across the Tiber (Tevere).' 

Right next door to us is the Jewish ghetto, known for its wonderful food. It is a neighborhood that was created by a papal bull from Pope Paul IV in 1555 as a place to segregate the Jewish community without having to drive them and their business out of Rome. It was definitely not the nicest place to live in Rome; crowded, dilapidated, quarantined... The treatment of these people was horrifying. The Jewish ghetto finally became a part of Rome officially after the unification of Italy in 1870. They lost a good portion of their citizens during WWII due to forced deportations. But despite all of its hardship the Jewish ghetto is now a beautiful, vibrant place full of fresh markets and delectable kosher eateries. Danielle and I are planning on finding some great open-air markets to get some good produce.

So to pacify all of the curiosity I took some pictures of my flat! It's pretty large but has 2 tiny showers and is decked out in all IKEA furniture. I love my flatmates though!

An American in Roma

My first day as a resident of Rome, as a Trasteverini, was amazing. Hot, sweaty, crazy, and wonderful! I am loving Rome. I went out to the supermercato with some of my flatmates and we bought a few basic provisions: bread, mozzarella, apples, raisins, wine... you know, the necessities! Our supermercato is just a block down the street from our building and is so easy to shop in. We didn't have any problems despite the language barrier! After we dropped our spoils off at the flat I headed out in search of pizza with Wendy, Ashley, Lindsay, and a few others. We strolled down Plaza Ippolotino Nievo to Plaza di Trastevere and passed a few hole-in-the-wall local eateries, but they didn't call to us. We ended up in a cute wood panel and marble pizzeria that had delicious and fresh pizza. Everyone was so nice and the food was ridiculously cheap. €2 for a meal! We continued to walk on and found a cute little gelateria with a bitchy sales clerk. We found ourselves strolling along the Tiber river eating gelato and enjoying the (slightly) cooler weather. The Tiber has adorable markets and restaurants on the banks under the bridges with live music. It was just amazing to see bright neon green lights glowing against arches of Isola Tibberina - the old and the new creating something so beautiful and alive. We don't have to preserve the past exactly as it was... perhaps the role something plays in modern times is just as worthy of history as the original form. We learn about the story of what an artifact meant, functioned as, and also what it survived and evolved into. 

I'm literally falling asleep at my computer right now... jetlag...
But I'll update later!
Buonna Notte!

I'm Here!!!!!!

I am currently in my room in my flat in the historic district of Trastevere! Oh my Lord this is amazing!! I'm in a triple room in a flat that houses 8 people. We have 2 bathrooms, a kitchen, and a strange empty room that we have no idea what it's for. 

All is well! My flight went swimmingly. I popped a sleeping pill and passed out. By the time I woke up we were about to fly over France. I also finished reading A Clash of Kings on the way so now I feel sufficiently epic. Stepping off the plane in Rome was very telling. No air conditioning and lots of humidity. I'm sweating so much it's kind of disgusting. At least the train from Fiumacino to Termini was air conditioned. After the train I caught a cab to Trastevere and spent about ten minutes looking for my residence. We're officially termed as a boarding house, not dorms, and thankfully we have a lift! It's one of the strange ones with the two sets of doors that you have to work manually, but it's all the more fun!

So I'm rooming with Eliza and Carmen and we're having way too much fun getting settled. I'll update more later!

Ciao!

Rome If You Want To

I'm moving to Rome. I'm moving to Rome. I'm moving to Rome... Maybe if I keep saying it it will finally begin to feel real. I seriously cannot believe that this is my life!!! It feels like a dream! How on earth did I get so lucky? Perhaps it will feel real when I land...

So I'm biding my time between flights in Philadelphia (ugh...) in the posh US Airways club lounge. I expected more food... They have coffee, olives, and mints. Maybe I'm just here at an odd time. I'm about to board, so I'll next update from Rome!

3... 2... 1... Blastoff!!!!

It's officially one week until I depart!!!!! I am way too excited! I keep thinking about things as 'the last time I do x before I move to Italy!' 

Now my biggest worry is packing... I have to pack one bag for 4 months. At first you think, 'Four months? No big deal. Besides, Europeans generally own only a couple of outfits anyways.' And let me say, I am all for outfit repeating and getting clever with my wardrobe by turning five articles of clothing into twenty different looks. But the big problem is weather. I'm going to get there in the tail end of summer (which still means it's in the mid/upper nineties) and I'll be leaving in January... So I'm up against extremely humid heat and crisp chills at the same time. I'm thinking my plan is going to revolve around layers. This way I can switch things up while still having room for climate change. 

I'm looking forward to getting lost and discovering amazing things by accident. That's how I found the Trevi fountain the first time! I was walking down a tiny street lined with vendors and all of a sudden it opened into a large space and the Trevi fountain was right there! As much as I love tours and am grateful to the people who do them and supply the masses with information that they otherwise would not have known, I still prefer to discover things on my own. Probably because I dislike people scheduling every moment of my exploration time, and because I have an insatiable curiosity, but most of all because I am generally more well educated about some of the things that the tour guides have to talk about. I don't mean to sound like a snob, but I just get irked when people make blanket statements about history without going into the meaning and significance of specifics. So I'm going to get purposefully lost (don't worry, my sense of direction is impeccable!) and see what I find whether it be a hidden historical landmark or a really good gelatto shop!

I am way too excited to even wait for this week to pass! I'm about to just start jumping about and packing everything and anything! Just wait... I'll end up at the airport way too early and be vibrating with uncontrollable joy mixed with impatience and everyone is going to just assume I'm on drugs... oh dear.

Confessions of a Poor College Student

So it's officially 11 days until I depart for the eternal city and I still can't believe that this is happening. I am hardcore panicking over financial aid things and other money issues. I think it is all part of me not having a job for the month and a half of summer that I got. I just feel so useless. I need to earn something to contribute to this colossally expensive trip. I worry that I am just asking and asking for money that neither my parents nor I have. All I'm really doing right now is worrying my pants off and since I can't really believe that any of this is really happening to me I'm stuck just freaking out. Hopefully I get this all settled in the next few days and  I'll be able to focus on how amazing this is going to be. I really don't want to spend my trip worrying about every little detail.